Last of the season's classes!

These are the last of the spring's classes.  To sign up, go to Hardin County, KY Extension Office.  In the upper right corner, click on "Register for Classes"

Sweet Potato varieties

How to Grow: Sweet Potatoes* - May 7  This southern staple can be grown successfully in Kentucky.  Learn the tips and tricks to harvesting full-sized flavorful roots.  Hardin County Extension Office beginning at 6:00 p.m. $5

Make your Own Mosaic Pot – May 20 and 22  In this two-part class, you will decorate an 8-inch terracotta pot and saucer with mosaic tiles in the first class. Then, come back the next day and learn all about grouting. All supplies are included. Class size is limited to 25. Hardin County Extension Office beginning at 6:00 p.m. $35.

Payment for each of the Gardener’s Toolbox classes are required TWO WEEKS prior to the class date.  You will be registered on a first pay, first registered basis.  Cancellations will be fully refunded TWO WEEKS prior to the class date. Please let us know as early as possible if you have to cancel, we probably have others on a wait list.

Protecting Pollinators

      Spring is here.  Don’t blink; it will be summer soon enough.  As the dandelions, violets, and Bradford pears bloom, we need to think about all the insects, including honeybees, that pollinate those flowers.

Hover Fly pollinating a flower

Insects pollinate a large percentage of food crops grown in the U.S. and all over the world.  Many different species of pollinators exist, but the insect best equipped for this job is the honey bee. Honey bees are exceptionally efficient at collecting and transferring pollen among the flowers of a particular crop.  In a practice known as “flower fidelity” groups of foraging bees will visit just one type of flower, collecting and storing pollen in baskets located on their legs.  As the bees fly from flower to flower, pollen particles are transformed between male and female parts triggering the plant’s reproduction cycle which results in a fruit or vegetable that may eventually find its way to a dinner table. 

A growing concern for U.S. agricultural producers is the continuing decline of honey bee populations.  According to the National Agricultural Statistics Service, the number of colonies in Kentucky has dropped dramatically over the last century from 152,900 in 1909 to just 5,000 in 2009.

Many studies are underway to try to pinpoint the cause for this decline, and so far several factors have emerged as detrimental to honey bee health.  One of these involves the use of pesticides and insecticides which can produce harmful effects in other pollinators, too.

Approximately 4,000 species of native or wild bees assist the honey bee in making a large contribution to the pollination task.  They include everything from large bumblebees to tiny sweat bees.  There are miner bees, carpenter bees, mason bees, plaster bees and orchard bees -- all named for the types of nests they build.  Butterflies and some flies also pollinate certain plants. 

You can help promote and protect insect pollinators by following a few simple rules.  Never spray plants with insecticides when the plants are actively blooming.  If chemical applications are necessary, strive for infrequent use and choose selective products with minimal impact on natural resources, especially bees. 

Promote pollinators and invite them into your environment by planting a diverse landscape with flowers, trees and other greenery that bloom in succession from spring into fall. 

Bird Nests: Good or Bad?

     While birds are fun to watch, their spring nesting and roosting activities often create damage and potential health hazards. The best way to prevent these problems is to deny bird nesting and roosting sites.

Bird nest left over from 2013.  Will it be reused?

     Bird droppings damage buildings, sidewalks, cars and outdoor furniture.  Nesting materials can clog gutters, downspouts and air vents, according to Mike Potter, urban entomologist with the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture. 

     "In addition," he said, "birds can transmit serious diseases including salmonellosis which causes food poisoning. People also can pick up systemic fungal infections by inhaling airborne spores that grow in bird droppings."

          "Now is the time to encourage pest birds such as pigeons, starlings and sparrows to find another home -- before they

establish nests," Potter said.

     He gave this advice to discourage nesting and roosting:

     * Seal vents and other small openings with one-fourth-inch hardware cloth or a similar material to exclude birds.

     * Use screen or net on the outside of attic vents to keep sparrows from nesting between louvers.

     * To deter activities on ledges, eaves and window sills, tightly string parallel strands of wire right above the surface ledge. Use sheet metal or wood boards to change the ledge angle 45 degrees or more. "Porcupine" wires, repellent gels and bird netting also are effective deterrents if installed correctly.

     Hardware and farm supply stores carry bird exclusion materials, according to Potter.

     "Before you install materials, remove nests and droppings to prevent problems with scavenger insects and disease pathogens," he said. "Wear gloves and a respirator to avoid inhaling disease-causing spores. A dust mask is inadequate for this task. Lightly moisten nesting materials and droppings with water before moving them to reduce dust and the tendency for spores to become airborne. Difficult problems with long-established  roosts are best left to a pest control company or nuisance

wildlife firm."

     Potter said visual repellents like fake owls, snakes and balloons fail because birds become used to these objects and ignore them. For a greater chance of success, change the position of objects periodically, or the pattern in which they are placed.

     "Noises like clapping hands or distress call cassette tapes work on small roosts of birds like starlings," he said. "However noise-frightening efforts require persistence because they must continue for several consecutive times to be successful. It's best to begin before the flock becomes attached to the site."

     Potter cautioned people to store surplus bird seed in tight-fitting containers.

     "Unsealed seed bags in a garage or basement

are prime targets for meal moths, mice, and other pests," he said.

Asparagus: a Springtime Treat

Nothing quite compares to the flavor of fresh homegrown asparagus during the months of April, May and June.  Anybody who is an asparagus lover and has some garden space should consider raising it.

 

Early spears waiting for the grill.

Asparagus does not require a lot of special attention.  When planting, be sure to purchase crowns that are one year  old.  You might want to try the male hybrids like Jersey Centennial, Syn4-51, Syn4-56, and Jersey Giant that are on the market now.  They are much better than some of the old standard varieties.

Spacing is critical.  The crowns should be placed 18 inches apart in the bottom of the trench.  The trench should be about 6 to 8 inches deep, 12 to 15 inches wide with rows ideally spaced three feet apart.  It is also a good idea to double dig the trench to loosen up the soil to a depth of 12 to 18 inches.

In the past, asparagus could not be harvested for the first three years but that has all changed.  During the first year the plants should be left alone.  For the second year, limit harvests to three to four weeks, then let the ferns grow.

This procedure is necessary so the root system will develop from its limited size and will store food reserves to produce growth next year.  Plants harvested too early after setting may become weakened and spindly.  During the third year the plants can be harvested all the way through April, May and June.

Harvest spears when they are 5 to 7 inches tall.  Break them off at soil level rather than using a knife, since cutting can easily injure the crown buds which produce the next spears.  It is a good idea to harvest early in the morning and use the spear

or refrigerate them immediately.

Each year in the spring, asparagus should be side-dressed with one pound of 5-10-10 per every 1000 square foot of area.  If good care is taken, the plants can supply tasty asparagus spears for up to 15 years.

Start your Seeds...

               Starting seed indoors enables you to select the exact varieties you want for vegetable or flower beds, whether an heirloom tomato or new zinnia variety.  There are other benefits from having a variety of home-grown vegetables and flowers.  One of the most satisfying is to say, “I grew these myself, from seed.”

Display Gardens at the Hardin County, KY Extension Office

               Vegetable seeds that are easy to start indoors include tomatoes, peppers, squash, cabbage, eggplant and cucumber.  Marigold and zinnia flower seed also are simple to start inside.

               Garden centers and mail-order catalogs offer many varieties from the newest and improved ones to favorite standbys.  To avoid buying too many seed, calculate how many plants of each variety are needed for the garden.

               For greater success starting seed indoors, don’t plant them too early and give them adequate, but not excessive, water and sufficient light.

               Seeds planted too early result in overgrown plants that are yellow, crooked and spindly before it is even time to transplant them outdoors. Thus, it is critical to properly time the planting of new seed so young seedlings will be large enough to transplant in the garden when the danger of a late frost is over.

               To determine when to start the seed, check the outdoor sowing time on the seed packet or last late frost date for your location. In Hardin County, the average frost-free date is May 1.  Plant the seeds three to four weeks prior to the recommended seed packet date, or time before the last late frost.   An exception is squash and cucumbers, which require only seven to 10 days for seedlings to grow large enough to transplant in the garden.

               When it’s time to plant seed, gently press potting soil into each small container;  add two seed per container at the depth recommended on the package, and put the containers in leak-proof trays.  Unless you are using a peat product, be sure containers have at least one drainage hole.

               Then, slowly water each small container to saturate the potting mix, using slightly warm tap water.  Never allow containers to sit in standing water. Throw away excess water that seeps out of the trays.  A kitchen baster is a good tool to remove surplus water.

               Put the leak-proof trays in a warm location such as the top of a refrigerator or freezer to help seed germinate, usually in seven to 10 days.  A sprout emerging from the potting mix indicates germination.

               Plants need a bright area to grow indoors, but unfiltered sunlight will dry out the containers too quickly.

               After the seeds germinate, move the trays to a south window or sunroom with filtered light. An alternative is to put  fluorescent bulbs three to four inches from the containers to provide light necessary for growth. Leave the lights on all the time, and occasionally rotate plants that begin to grow towards the light source. 

               It is critical for newly-germinated seedlings to have water available for the next two to three weeks, so frequently check the moisture content with your finger to keep from damaging tender roots.  Carefully and consistently water when the soil feels dry a little below the surface for the first two weeks.  You can slowly apply a water-soluble fertilizer the third week.  Be sure to follow instructions for the amount of fertilizer to use.

               To avoid common problems starting seed indoors, use a high-quality starter mix, don’t plant seed too early; select a warm area to germinate seed; provide a high-light environment for seedlings to grow; and keep developing seedlings moderately moist.

               For more information on other gardening or horticultural topics, contact the Hardin County Cooperative Extension Service by phone: 270.765.4121, email: Amy.Aldenderfer@uky.edu, contact us on Facebook, or on the web: www.hardinhort.org.

Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or national origin.

Spring Class list

Spring Horticulture Classes at the Hardin County Extension Office
A month's worth...

Making a Mosaic Pot - March 17 and 18, 2014

Making a Mosaic Pot - March 17 and 18, 2014

In this two-part class, you will decorate an 8-inch terracotta pot and saucer with mosaic tiles in the first class. Then, come back the next day and learn all about grouting. All supplies are included. Class size is limited to 25. Hardin County Extension Office beginning at 6:00 p.m. $35

How to Grow: Blueberries - March 19, 2014

Have you heard the health benefits of blueberries?  Seen what you have to pay for fresh blueberries?  Come to this class and learn if you have the right soil to grow your own. Hardin County Extension Office beginning at 6:00 p.m. $5

How to Grow: Cabbage, Broccoli and Cauliflower - March 25, 2014

Having trouble getting your cabbage to head? Know when to pick your broccoli for the best taste?  Learn all there is to know about the three biggest cole crops.  Hardin County Extension Office beginning at 6:00 p.m. $5

Vegetable Gardening 101 - April 15, 2014

Start with the beginning.  This class will get you started on your first vegetable garden.  We will discuss gardening in containers, square foot gardening, and how to plan a garden for yourself and your family. Hardin County Extension Office beginning at 6:00 p.m. $5